Tim the Mechanic Our Heroes Car Parts cars Tim's Story Paul's Truck
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Tim the Mechanic Our Heroes Car Parts cars Tim's Story Paul's Truck
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Success Stories: 2001 VW Jetta, broke timing belt at 91k miles, bent 20 valves. Volkswagen dealership quoted $4700 to repair. I repaired, parts & labor, $2000. Volkswagen should have put a timing belt replacement mileage at about 70,000 miles on this 1.8 Turbo engine, NOT at 105,000 - factory recommendation. To expect a rubber belt to run 20 valves in a 4 cylinder engine with a turbo for 105k miles is insane! Especially on an interference engine. Sorry, all those who believe German engineering is better than American or Asian, you haven't considered the cost of repairs. This is what you get: This is 20 bent and broken valve = retail cost of each valve - $37 each, which doesn't include the cost of machine shop labor, head gasket or the labor cost to remove and install the cylinder head. It doesn't include the cost of the replacement timing belt, special tools needed only for this job, or other gaskets and fluids to finish the job. And even if you considered installing a used cylinder head, the cheapest one I could find in Denver was $450. Volkswagen doesn't even want to deal with repairing their engine - it's easier and more profitable to just sell you a new engine. Even Volkswagen doesn't supply the proper manuals to do these repairs. I found them to be more confusing than anything and found a much easier and shorter procedure. I also have a local machine shop that rebuilds cylinder heads for less than most and I in turn pass on the savings to my customer. So you get a rebuilt cylinder head at less than a used one.
Customers 2005 Honda Civic, overheated, seized engine:
I talked with the customer regarding this, and suggested pricing a used engine assembly, because the chances of fixing the engine with just repairing blown head gasket were slim. He said to do it - my first call, directed me to Central Foreign auto salvage, who told me - shocked me - by saying they had a complete assembly for $470 plus tax - with 57k miles. Note this is the Honda 1.7 VTECH. Needless to say, I notified customer, bought the engine and went to work. I grabbed the engine immediately. The engine and transmission both had to be dropped out the bottom, meaning suspension, everything had to come out. First thing before installing the engine, I replaced the water pump and timing belt :
62nd & Downing, (1201 E. 62nd)Northeast corner. Just getting set up, More details coming!!! Finally, what I've spent the last 7 years only dreaming of. And living proof that the Good Lord will give us our dreams. After persevering the elements for 7 years, surviving all worst working conditions outdoors that you could imagine; installing engines in snow banks, laying in dirt, rocks, asphalt, mud, etc. Now I have a heated, cement floor, 3 stall shop. And it took a month to get everything set up. The "waste oil furnace works get all my used oil, transmission fluid, and hydraulic fluid. It took a few days to get it going; cleaning it replacing parts, hooking it to my compressor. The 2 tall doors are remote and are tall enough to drive "Thumper" in. My compressor ties into the existing pipes so that I can plug my air hose in all over. The first time I've been able to have all my tools in one place; tools I haven't been able to use - parts washer, compressor, air tools, etc.
REPAIR OPTIONS -COMMON SENSE CHOICES
'97 4Runner: Quick top end rebuild - sometimes engine don't need replaced When a compression check reveals low compression and has loss of power but no smoke, especially when one cylinder is low, it's probably a valve problem. Toyota 4Runners I've found two. A '94 with the 3.0 V6 and a '97 with 2.7 L4. I just finished the '97. You rarely see on having lower end problems under 200k. The trick to doing a upper end is precision. All marks on cams, crankshaft and drive gears must be lined up before disassembly and reassembly. On the 2.7, it has dual overhead cam driven by a timing chain - it turns the intake cam which is geared separately to the exhaust cam. See pics:
My name is Tim, aka, Tim the Mechanic, and my life is Cars. I do jobs most mechanic won't ; Engines, transmissions, Clutches , Computer diagnostics. But my specialty is fixing it for LESS than anyone else. I've fixed cars for 30+ years. My business was developed with a box of tools & cell phone. And with God's help I've been successful and built an established clientele in just 3 years. My approach is that auto repair should be cost effective to all. And quality tested used engines, transmissions - out of running wrecked vehicles are less than half the cost of new or rebuilt engines. For instance, a new engine from the factory averages from $1500. to $3500, depending on make & model. Used average $350 to $850, few exceptions higher. And another thing that most don't know about buying a used engine is that they come complete with most accessories; carburetors, sensor, oil pan, fuel injectors - parts that would normally have to come from the old engine being replaced. Parts that could have lead to the engines failure to begin with. Further, the time spent to exchange all these parts onto a factory engine is eliminated. And the used engine always comes from the identical make & model ! Another advantage to my services is parts mark-up. All shops mark their parts double, sometimes triple their cost. I don't You pay what-ever my cost is. So imagine an engine replaced at $1500 - $2000 total cost? I provide you with my receipt of purchase (upon request). I find that most car owner don't know, or even consider, the actual price of the replacement part when taking car to the shop for repairs. They also don't know a little known fact that most computer programs designed for auto shops provide the price of factory part - the most expensive replacement part available - then provide the option to automatically increase it by 50-60 percent? Example: my associate David bought a crate engine from Chevy. Costly but good decision when you can afford such an upgrade - 3 year, 50,000 mile warranty. To save time, he decided to purchase a new water pump - as noted above, accessories are not included as part of engine - later noticing that it was over $100.00 for the pump. The same pump is available at most part stores for under $20.00. The $20.00 part carries the same lifetime warranty as the factory OEM part. Is the factory part better? Who knows, but if it were, why would they need replacement parts? See Car Parts If you have a car you want to keep for a long time, a classic or a solid dependable car, the proper way to do engine would be to rebuild. I am not talking about remanufactured engines. They are done mass production by 10 different people. The eternal parts of an engine spin 500 to 6000 rpms and are precision. But small machine shops do quality work. See Dave's truck. I do almost anything on a car, but engine rebuilds is time consuming and precision work that requires tools and equipment only found in machine shop. I leave that part to the experts.
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